サイズ選びの定義…美学…
Feb 08, 2022
ごきげんよう
サイズ１番担当のノブヲです。
今日の話題では「サイズ１番担当だけど、モデルによってサイズ２番でもいいのでは！？」
というお話です。
サイズの検証については、COVAちゃんがYouTubeでも紹介してます。↓
でも、僕がここで語りたいのは、自分のサイズ選びの定義です。
「それは違う！、わかってないなぁー」などたくさんのご意見はあるかと思いますが、その人それぞれの美学があることは承知の上です。あくまでも、僕個人の意見ですので、悪しからず。
僕のサイズ選びの定義…美学…はどうやって生まれたか？！から話していきます。
これは上下巻構成になってしまうかな笑
10代の頃に遡ります。ブラックカルチャーにインスパイアされて、洋服が好きになってしまいます。当時B-BOYが流行り、その時代はオーバーサイズがイケてたので良かったのですが、古着が好きになり、徐々にジャストサイズを選ぶ様になってからが、背が低い僕の苦悩が始ます。
アメリカが好きで、古着が好き。でもアメリカ人は皆大きい…古着で自分のサイズを探すのは皆無。小さいものが見つかってもそれは、レディースかボーイズ。前立ての合わせが逆…袖が短い…。買ってそのまま着れる物なんて殆ど出逢えませんでした。そしていつしか、柄やデザインが気に入ったものは、なんでも自分サイズに“リサイズ”する様になります。
ヴィンテージ好きやコレクターから言わせれば、「オリジナルが勿体無い！」なんて散々言われましたが、そのままでは着れない、似合わないまま所持してる方が勿体無いです。
特に僕が気にしていたのは、“着丈”と“袖丈”です。この二箇所は、未だに良くお直しで調整しています。もちろん身幅も調整しちゃうことも多々あります。
そうした、身体のハンデによる苦悩の末、自分のサイズ感への定義が確立されていきました。これをSUNSET BAYに置き換えてお話ししていきます。
僕が思うベストなサイジングは、ライダースかそれ以外かで違います。
基本的に、ライダースはジャストサイズでないと納得がいきません。
あえて、ドロップショルダーやオーバーにデザインされているブランドなら話は別です。
僕は、「バイクに乗る時に着る」と言うバイカー向けの用途ではなく、「街着として着る」
ファッション向けの観点で話しています。
ライダースジャケットの中に着込む為にワンサイズ上を選ぶのも個人的には、オススメしません。
ライダースは、僕が思うに着丈、袖丈、肩幅がジャストである事が一番美しく、カッコイイのです。
オーバーサイズを好む方からすると、屁みたいな話ですが。
とは言え、最近また肥えてきてるので、痩せるか、サイズアップをしないと
革ジャンが着れなくなります。初老を目前にし、新陳代謝が落ち、年々運動量が減って来ている中年は、痩せる選択肢以外も検討せざるおえません。
と言う事で、ライダース適正サイズの検証用に写真を撮ってみましたが、
着丈が短いKINGSを使ってしまったので、サイズアップしても着丈はそんなに気にならない絵になってしまいました…冒頭の前置きはなんだったんだと自分でも思います。
顕著な箇所で言えば袖丈です。
僕がKINGSを２番にするなら袖丈は最低でも−２cmほど短くする必要があります。サイズアップすると着丈も長く見えてしまう、もっとわかりやすいBUZZARDSとかCLYDEにすれば良かったですね。。。
説得力のない絵ですみません。
後編では、サイズアップをして着ても格好良いモデルについて続きを書きます。
以上、駄文失礼しました。
ノブヲ
4 comments
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