MORAYだからできる事。
Jun 14, 2022
ハローアネモス。
ジャーニー加藤です。
今日は、先日発売になったSUNSETBAYの新作”MORAY”について少し語らせて頂こうと思いますのでお付き合いくださいませ。
オールシーズン着用できる汎用性の高いベストを作りたいと思って数年が経ち、
中々その構想に相応しい革が見つからず諦めていた去年の自分。
デザイン自体は出来上がっていたのですが、如何せんシンプルなデザインでしょ？
それに当て込むのは普通の馬革や牛革では綺麗過ぎてノッペラボウになってしまうのが分かっていたので、
次第にこのプロジェクトも足が止まり始めたんです。
が、しかし。
やっぱり引き出しにはちゃんと仕舞っておくものですね。
出来たじゃないですか、最高に適した皮革が。
そう、何を隠そうNatalie calfが今回のMORAYの座を奪ったんです。
あのしなやかで柔らかな子牛の革、
見た目の虎目のエグミとは裏腹に、何とも上質でストレスフリーな着心地。
君に決めた！
そう、僕の中のサトシが声を上げたんです。
今回このMORAYに求めた性能は大きく分けて3つあります。
まず一つ目は、
シンプルさの中にしっかりと主張性を持ち合わせた面構え。
トラ目の美しい高級皮革、Natalie calfを贅沢に使用し、更に背面は一枚革を使用する豪勢な仕様。
もちろん背骨の痕跡をど真ん中に残した玄人好みの仕上がり。
まずこれだけで見て楽しいを確保。
そして二つ目は、
半袖のTシャツにも厚手のニットにも着れちゃう汎用性。
これは最も重視した部分ですね。
薄着の着衣に羽織る前提でベストを製作する分にはアームホールの開口をそこまで意識する必要はないのですが、
がっしりしたニットの上にもストレスなく着れるように製作売るとなると一筋縄ではいきません。
あまりに開口を広くを取ると、だらしなくスカスカな感じになりますし
開口狭めの攻め姿勢にすると着心地が損なわれて着たくなくなる。
これは以前製作したことのあるFUNDYというモデルで立証しました。
そこを踏まえ、幾度となく調整を繰り返すことで、誰でも様になる最高のバランスに辿り着きました。
そして三つ目はと言うと、
アウターを着た時の干渉やそれに伴うストレスの軽減を実現する事でした。
実はそこが一番皮革問題に直結する難題だったんです。
アウターを着るとインナーと摩擦が生じますよね？
表面がオイリーで滑りの悪い革だとアウターの裏地を引っ張ってしまうため、
脱ぎ着も困難になりますし裏地の破損にも繋がります。
でも滑りが良い部分だけに着目して革を選ぶと、何とも素っ気ない面構えが容易に予想できます。
だってファスナーデザインが落とし込まれている訳でもないし、ライダースジャケットのように襟がある訳でもない。
結果、冒頭にもお伝えしたノッペラボウって言葉も頷けてしまうベストの出来上がり！
になってしまします。
面白いもので、別のPRODUCTを製作するにあたり開発した皮革が時を経て、前に挫折したMORAYにスポットライトを当ててくれるなんて夢にも思いませんでした。
欲しいはすぐには作れない。
しかし、欲しいと思っているものを大切に心に仕舞っておけば、こうやって違う角度から点と点が線で結ばれることだってあるんです。
極稀にですが。
Simple is best.
春夏秋冬着れる革衣料が欲しかった自分が本当に誇れる一着MORAY。
Simple is vest.
オヤジギャグもびっくり。
革ジャンの下に着れるユーティリティな革ベスト。
レザー２ピース。
そんな変態な着こなしをしてくれる人が自分以外にも沢山いるんだと確認でき胸を撫で下ろした今日この頃です。
今年は再生産はないと思うので現在庫を有効に生かしてください。
是非！！
Journey．
70 comments
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